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Whether you're managing a transparent LED screen in a retail facade, a flexible LED display for curved architectural installations, or a custom church LED wall for worship environments, password recovery follows the same core principles — but context matters.
Try these in order — they’re factory-set across most professional-grade panels: 168、888、168888、888888、12345678、88888888. These work on small LED screen units, led advertising screen systems, and even led poster display installations — if no admin has changed them.
Applies to: Transparent LED panel, small led display screen, led walls for churches, led advertising screen
1. Power Down — Unplug the main power cable.
2. Locate the Test Button — Found on the control card, typically behind the rightmost module near the power inlet.
3. Hold & Reboot — Press and hold the button while plugging the unit back in.
4. Hold for 10 Seconds — Wait until the screen flickers or displays diagnostic symbols.
5. Release — The system resets to factory defaults.
For Zhonghang Control Cards: Hold the black button for 15 seconds during power-up.
If equipped with a backup battery: Remove it, wait 5+ minutes, then reinsert. Auto-reset triggers.
For transparent led screen or flexible led display units with built-in Wi-Fi:
· Open browser → Navigate to 192.168.0.1
· Login: admin / admin (or admin with blank password)
· Go to Wireless Security → Change SSID and password
· Can’t log in? Press the router’s reset hole for 10 seconds — lights flash → defaults restored
Newer W-Series Cards (Firmware V6.01.119+): Skip passwords entirely — connect to “Open Wi-Fi” with no credentials.
Action | Effect | Settings Preserved? |
Hold S1 while powered on | Only Wi-Fi credentials reset | ✅ All other settings kept |
Power off → Hold S1 → Reboot | Full factory reset | ❌ Everything wiped — reconfigure from scratch |
Led burn in prevention: After reset, avoid displaying static content (e.g., logos, text) for >4 hours. Use pixel-shifting or screen savers — especially critical on church led wall and led poster display units running 24/7.
· Every brand uses a proprietary app.
· Scan the QR code on your device — using WeChat — to auto-redirect to the correct download link.
· After reset, log in with 12345678 → reconfigure content, brightness, and network.
Pro Tip: For led advertising screen deployments, schedule automatic brightness adjustments to reduce led burn in risk during nighttime hours.
Part Two: Problems and Solutions for LED Poster Displays .
Chances are, something’s shorting out — check the power plugs (both + and -), and don’t forget the switch connections. Also, peek inside the frame — sometimes a screw or piece of metal fell in and’s causing chaos. This is especially critical for indoor LED screen installations where power density is high.
Start at the dead LED display panel. Is it getting power? Test the switch and the cable running to it — if the ribbon cable’s loose, the signal won’t get through. If that’s fine, the receiving card might be dead. Work your way backward — one thing at a time, and you’ll find it. Common in church LED screen setups due to long cable runs.
That panel’s toast. Just swap it out. For wall-mounted indoor LED screen installations, they’re usually stuck on with magnets — give it a gentle tug, pop it off, and slide in the spare. Done in under a minute. Ideal for stage LED screen applications where rapid maintenance is essential.
Most likely, your network cable’s junk. Cheap cables drop packets when streaming video — boom, black screen or lag. Swap it for a solid Cat6 or better, and you’re golden. Critical for LED screens for events where live video feeds must be flawless.
That’s your receiving card acting up. Find which card controls that spot (check the software map), and just swap it out. Easy fix. Often misdiagnosed as black spots on display — but this is a signal issue, not LED failure.
Start at the bad display LED panel. Wiggle the cables — if it’s loose or the connector’s cracked, replace the cable. If that doesn’t help, swap the whole panel. Common in curved LED screen arrays where panel alignment stresses connectors.
Don’t sweat it. A handful of dead LEDs? Normal. As long as it’s not a big patch, no one’s gonna notice. This is typical in COB LED display units — higher pixel density reduces visibility of single failures.
You need an LED video processor. Without one? Nope. With one? Just tweak the output zone in its settings — boom, perfect sync. Essential for flexible LED screen installations where aspect ratios vary dynamically.
That’s the sending card. It’s not talking to the software, even though the screen still works on its own. Replace the sending card — problem solved. Common in setups using LED display screen suppliers’ proprietary control systems.
Not hardware. It’s the software settings. Go back in, reset the layout, resolution, and output mapping. Usually just a misconfigured profile. A frequent issue with display manufacturer-branded control software that defaults to 16:9.
If a board won’t light up, it’s usually one of four things: no power, a loose/cracked data cable, a fried 245 chip, or bad pins on the 595 connector. Just swap the power supply, replace the cable, swap the chip, or reseat/reconnect the pins. Critical for flexible led screen installations where bending stresses solder joints.
No light at all? First, check if the control card is getting power — maybe its supply is dead. Then inspect the main power circuit, reset the software settings (someone might’ve messed them up), and if all else fails, replace the control card. Common in stage LED screen systems after high-volume events.
Don’t panic — your screen’s fine. This happens when the font size doesn’t match the screen resolution. Just shrink or resize your content in the software so it fits properly. No hardware fix needed. Especially noticeable on cob led display with ultra-high PPI.
If it’s a horizontal line? Check the data cable between panels or swap the 245 chip on the faulty board. If it’s a vertical strip? That’s a power issue — replace the power supply feeding that section. Often seen in church LED screen installations with aging power distribution.
A panel glowing non-stop? Likely culprit: bad data cable, faulty distribution board, broken panel, or a damaged 595 chip. Start by checking the cable, then the board, then the panel — and swap the chip if needed. Can be mistaken for bright spot on LED TV — but this is a data line fault, not backlight bleed.
This isn’t the screen’s fault. It’s usually a loose or broken COM cable between your computer and the control card. Try reseating the cable, or if the COM port itself is dead — time for a new computer or USB-to-COM adapter. Common when using third-party display manufacturer control interfaces.
Too many phones connected to the control card’s Wi-Fi? That’s the issue. Stick to 2–3 devices max. Fix it by resetting the card to factory settings, then reconnecting and reconfiguring the screen. A known limitation with led screens for events using mobile control apps.
